olivier bernade
| alpinist & engineerbasecamp: Grenoble, French alps
March 27 2011 we lost a good friend, a great alpinist and a member of our team, Olivier Bernade. To many he was known as a passionate, focused climber, with a strong preference for alpine/mixed routes in cold conditions.
Olivier discovered climbing at an early age. In 2005 he completed his first first 8a sport climbing and from then on he added a number of impressive summits, gulleys and expeditions to the CV.
Olivier was a promising future guide, member of the young alpinist team of FFME* and very appreciated by mountaineering friends from all over France.
*federation francaise de la montagne et de l'escalade
notable ascents
2010 : Enchaînement de 3 faces nord dans les Tatras en 14 h. Ouverture d’une voie mixte et rocheuse dans les Tatras. Couloir Nord des Drus.
2009 : Annapurna Est par l’arête Est. Ouverture au Broad Peak jusqu’à 6500 m.
2008 : La colton en face nord des Droites, le Linceul en face nord des Grandes Jorasses. Ascension de trois 8000 sur le Baltoro en 16 jours, dont enchaînement en 52 h 30 de deux 8000 : GI et GII sans retour au CB. 3 faces nord du bassin d’argentière : la voie des Suisses aux Courtes, la Ginat aux Droites, et le Couturier à la Verte.
2007 : goulottes au Tacul : Pinocchio ; aux Petites Jorasses : La baumont, l’œil au beurre noir ; La boivin au dômes des Ecrins ; Louise fine à la Pointe Louise, La grassi dans la face nord d’Ailefroide occidentale, Face sud de la Meije : La Chevauchée des Vacheskirippes ; ouverture au Népal d’une nouvelle voie dans la face est du Pharilapcha (Vallée du Khumbu)
2006 : supercouloir au Tacul, goulotte du Pré de bar : Charlet Guilini, Madness très mince, Perroud Delettre ; arête nord du Pelvoux ; ouverture avec l’équipe nationale d’alpinisme de la FFCAM de 5 itinéraires mixtes dans le massif de l’Illampu (Bolivie).
Morocco climbing
| with the French Alpinism National Team, FFMEFamous for its perfect limestone and big walls, Taghia attracts climbers from the whole world. This is also where Olivier, and the French Alpinism National Team, went for a spring break, to get a dose of long climbs, sun and mint tea.
Once you get there, after hours of plane, 4x4 driving and some hours hiking, you find a small village of mudroof houses, water channels, and smiling people. Smiling climbers with aching hands, or smiling locals preparing tajine or a couscous.
The walls that rise next to village are of the size 500m to 800m. Well-known climbs are “Les Rivières Pourpres”, 500m, 7c(sport) or “Rouge Berbère”, 560m, 7a+(trad), or shorter, perfect routes like “Bailando” con Henna, 200m, 7c, to mention a few.
photo credits: Antoine Pecher, FFME
